{"id":13910,"date":"2016-11-15T17:04:40","date_gmt":"2016-11-15T15:04:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/spomag-lv.localhost\/?p=13910"},"modified":"2016-11-15T17:05:25","modified_gmt":"2016-11-15T15:05:25","slug":"lielais-pargajiens-korsikanu-stila-5-un-6-diena","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/lielais-pargajiens-korsikanu-stila-5-un-6-diena\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201cLIELAIS P\u0100RG\u0100JIENS\u201d KORSIK\u0100\u0145U STIL\u0100: 5. UN 6. DIENA"},"content":{"rendered":"

Desmit dienas, piecpadsmit posmi.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n

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\u201cLielais P\u0101rg\u0101jiens\u201d korsik\u0101\u0146u stil\u0101\u00a0jeb GR20 trekings Korsikas kalnos.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pied\u0101v\u0101jam jums Krist\u012bnes Liepi\u0146as rakst\u012btos fragmentus no dienasgr\u0101matas par GR20 trekingu Korsikas kalnos.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u0160odien lasi par piekto un sesto dienu.<\/p>\n

Teksts: Krist\u012bne Liepi\u0146a<\/p>\n

Foto: Kristaps un Krist\u012bne Liepi\u0146i (Kalnu Grupa)<\/p>\n

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02.10.2016. Piekt\u0101 diena, sept\u012btais un astotais posms.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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P\u0113c lietain\u0101s nakts ce\u013camies negrib\u012bgi un \u201cslapji\u201d, – kuram gan pat\u012bk pakot slapju telti. Par laimi pret r\u012btu debesis ir noskaidroju\u0161\u0101s, bet saule gan v\u0113l k\u0101du stundu sl\u0113psies aiz kalna. \u0112dam brokastis, pakojamies un dodamies t\u0101l\u0101k. Priek\u0161\u0101 600 augstuma metru k\u0101piens aug\u0161up l\u012bdz p\u0101rejai pa \u201ctaku\u201d \u2013 klint\u012bm un akme\u0146iem. Nav t\u0101, ka b\u016btu piln\u012bgi viegli, bet t\u0101 k\u0101 mums ir k\u0101p\u0161anas iema\u0146as, tas nekas sare\u017e\u0123\u012bts ar\u012b nav. Apdzenam vair\u0101kus trekingot\u0101jus. Pamal\u0113 s\u0101k jau sarasties m\u0101ko\u0146i, gaiss p\u0113c vakardienas lietus ir mitrs, nekas ne\u017e\u016bst. Taka s\u0101k k\u013c\u016bt aizvien st\u0101v\u0101ka, tom\u0113r tiekam atalgoti ar skaistiem skatiem, jo \u012bpa\u0161i uzreiz p\u0113c p\u0101rejas sasnieg\u0161anas – \u0161eit taka travers\u0113 milz\u012bgu kalnu cirku ar st\u0101v\u0101m gran\u012bta smail\u0113m un skaistiem ezeriem cirka dzi\u013cum\u0101. \u012apa\u0161u skaistumu \u0161odienas g\u0101jienam pie\u0161\u0137\u012bra m\u0101ko\u0146i, kas no vienas puses ieskauj kori, tai pa\u0161\u0101 laik\u0101 otra puse no kores ar skaidr\u0101m zil\u0101m debes\u012bm.<\/p>\n

Uz p\u0101rejas satik\u0101m cien\u012bjama vecuma kundzi (t\u0101 ap 70) leopardraksta biks\u0113s, kura piest\u0101jusi pauz\u0113 izvilka sm\u0113\u0137i un pa telefonu fran\u010du valod\u0101 st\u0101st\u012bja k\u0101dam, cik noprat\u0101m, ka lietu \u0161eit vairs nev\u0113las piedz\u012bvot un \u0137i\u0137in\u0101ja par Kristapa izvilkto plan\u0161eti. Turpat ar\u012b aprun\u0101j\u0101mies ar p\u0101ris krieviem no P\u0113terburgas, kuri \u0161o pa\u0161u taku iet jau astoto dienu (kaut k\u0101 sakautr\u0113j\u0101mies pateikt, ka m\u0113s tikai piekto), – izskat\u012bj\u0101s, ka vi\u0146iem ir tendence p\u0101rkrauties ar p\u0101r\u0101k smagu ekip\u0113jumu, jo somas bija divtik lielas sal\u012bdzinot ar m\u016bs\u0113j\u0101m.<\/p>\n

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J\u0101, \u0161aj\u0101 GR20 posm\u0101 taka ir ar raksturu, un tie, kas sagaida taci\u0146u \u201ctaci\u0146as\u201d izpratn\u0113 b\u016bs p\u0101rsteigti, jo \u0161eit daudz j\u0101k\u0101pj pa klin\u0161u blokiem, j\u0101p\u0101rvar akme\u0146u sag\u0101zumi, j\u0101\u0161\u0137\u0113rso strauti. \u0160eit redz\u0113t\u0101s vismaz puskilometru augst\u0101s gran\u012bta sienas t\u0101 vien aicina atbraukt uz Korsiku v\u0113lreiz – ar alp\u012bnisma ekip\u0113jumu.<\/p>\n

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Dienas vid\u016b uz neliela klin\u0161aina kores pleca izlik\u0101m \u017e\u0101v\u0113ties telti un ap\u017e\u0101v\u0113j\u0101m mitr\u0101s dr\u0113bes. Pasp\u0113j\u0101m uz \u012bsu br\u012bdi, jo p\u0113c pauzes, dodoties ce\u013c\u0101, saulei priek\u0161\u0101 atkal aizlien m\u0101konis. Sept\u012bt\u0101 posma beigas no p\u0113d\u0113j\u0101s p\u0101rejas (\u0161aj\u0101 posm\u0101 t\u0101s ir k\u0101das \u010detras?) l\u012bdz kalnu m\u0101jai dramatisk\u0101 \u201cfree style\u201d stil\u0101 – br\u016bko\u0161i un kust\u012bgi akme\u0146i starp kuriem tek upe. \u0160odien uz takas esam satiku\u0161i ar\u012b p\u0101ris cilv\u0113kus ar p\u0101rsist\u0101m un asi\u0146ojo\u0161\u0101m sej\u0101m \u2013 j\u0101, krist \u0161eit nevajadz\u0113tu, bet var izn\u0101kt! J\u0101b\u016bt uzman\u012bgiem.<\/p>\n

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Kalnu m\u0101ja Pietra Piana ir ciet, ar\u012b \u0161eit sezona ir beigusies, bet mums tur, at\u0161\u0137ir\u012bb\u0101 no citiem trekingot\u0101jiem, neko nevajag, viss jau mums ir l\u012bdz. Vien\u012bgais ko grib\u0113tos \u2013 varb\u016bt ar kaut ko no p\u0101rtikas papildin\u0101t m\u016bsu kr\u0101jumus. Pie aizsl\u0113gt\u0101s kalnu m\u0101jas z\u0101lien\u0101 izb\u0113rti kartupe\u013ci. Izv\u0113lamies da\u017eus skaist\u0101kos, nomazg\u0101jam straut\u0101 un iepakojam mugursom\u0101 \u2013 b\u016bs labs papildin\u0101jums vakara zupai. No kalnu m\u0101jas lejup s\u0101kas jau astotais trekinga posms. P\u0113c k\u0101das stundas g\u0101jiena uz leju s\u0101kam mekl\u0113t vieti\u0146u teltij, jo negribam s\u0101kt n\u0101ko\u0161o k\u0101pienu aug\u0161up \u0161odien \u2013 lej\u0101 ir silt\u0101kas naktis. Nolemjam apmesties pie upes vec\u0101 pussabruku\u0161\u0101 \u201cm\u0101j\u0101\u201d, kas vair\u0101k gan atg\u0101dina lielu, kantainu akme\u0146u kr\u0101vumu. Mazg\u0101jamies up\u0113 \u2013 \u016bdens ir auksts, mazg\u0101jam ar\u012b dr\u0113bes, gatavojam vakari\u0146as. Telti celsim tad, kad satums\u012bs.<\/p>\n

Neskatoties uz to ka \u0161odien esam septi\u0146\u0101s stund\u0101s uzk\u0101pu\u0161i 850m pa vertik\u0101li un uz leju nog\u0101ju\u0161i vair\u0101k k\u0101 t\u016bkstoti augstuma metrus, \u0161\u0137\u0113rsoju\u0161i vismaz tr\u012bs kalnu p\u0101rejas, saj\u016bta ir k\u0101 maz\u0101 atp\u016btas dien\u0101, – pa\u0161i t\u012bri, dr\u0113bes izmazg\u0101tas un kar\u0101jas uz \u0161\u0146ores, kas nostiepta stap koku un pussagruvu\u0161o akmens valni, \u0113dam br\u012bni\u0161\u0137\u012bgu zupu, kura uzv\u0101r\u012bta no puspaci\u0146as Minestrone zupas koncentr\u0101ta, kalt\u0113tajiem tom\u0101tiem un svaigiem kartupe\u013ciem, kurus atrad\u0101m izmestus p\u013cav\u0101 pie kalnu m\u0101jas, un visapk\u0101rt ir silts, vakara saules pieliets prie\u017eu me\u017es.<\/p>\n

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03.10.2016. Sest\u0101 diena, astotais, dev\u012btais un desmitais posms.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Ce\u013camies v\u0113l tums\u0101, nakts ir silta. Dr\u0113bes pavisam labi iz\u017euvu\u0161as. Ce\u013c\u0101. Noejot v\u0113l k\u0101dus 300 augstuma metrus uz leju esam uz tilta, kur\u0161 ir tie\u0161i virs divu upju sateces vietas. \u0160eit, zem\u0101kaj\u0101 viet\u0101 ir vairs tikai 950 augstuma metri virs j\u016bras l\u012bme\u0146a un j\u0101s\u0101k k\u0101pt atkal aug\u0161up, – k\u0101ds puskilometrs augstuma l\u012bdz posma beig\u0101m. Tur ir n\u0101ko\u0161\u0101 kalnu m\u0101ja. Un tad s\u0101k\u0101s dev\u012btais posms\u2026 B\u0101c! Uzk\u0101p\u0101m l\u012bdz kalna korei virs kalnu m\u0101jas, bet \u0161odien \u0161eit p\u016b\u0161 \u013coti sp\u0113c\u012bgs v\u0113j\u0161. Taka iet pa kores muguru augst\u0101k un augst\u0101k. V\u0113j\u0161 pie\u0146emas sp\u0113k\u0101. Man tik \u013coti sevis k\u013c\u016bst \u017e\u0113l, – raud\u0101tu, bet nav sp\u0113ka, jo v\u0113j\u0161 p\u016b\u0161 tik sp\u0113c\u012bgi, ka g\u0101\u017e nost no k\u0101j\u0101m un no deguna p\u016b\u0161 \u0101r\u0101 pu\u0146\u0137us \u2026 Un k\u0101pienam aug\u0161up, \u0161\u0137iet neb\u016bs beigu. Aizsl\u0113pjamies aiz k\u0101da liela akmens, lai uzvilkam papildus jakas un cimdus, k\u0101 ar\u012b cepures. L\u012bdz p\u0101rejai tiekam salstot un ar sp\u0113ku turoties pret\u012b v\u0113jam. Aiz p\u0101rejas p\u0101rliekuma v\u0113j\u0161 jau vairs tik stipri nep\u016b\u0161 un garst\u0101voklis nedaudz uzlabojas.<\/p>\n

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Otrpus p\u0101rejas seko vair\u0101k k\u0101 kilometru augstuma starp\u012bb\u0101 (1200m) gar\u0161 nok\u0101piens, s\u0101kum\u0101 pa akme\u0146iem un klin\u0161ainu taku, tad gar \u013coti skaistu, gran\u012bta klint\u012bs upes izskalotu, kanjonu. \u0160eit \u013coti netipiski daudz t\u016bristu \u2013 no ielejas apak\u0161as \u0161eit tuvu takas un iesp\u0113ja piebraukt ar automa\u0161\u012bn\u0101m. Man skumj\u0161 noska\u0146ojums un nesp\u0113ks, \u013coti grib\u0101s \u0113st. L\u0113n\u0101m turpinam iet uz tuv\u0101ko apdz\u012bvoto vietu Vizzavonu ar cer\u012bbu, ka tur b\u016bs veikals. \u0160eit 920m augstum\u0101 atrodas neliela pils\u0113ti\u0146a ar v\u0113sturisk\u0101m \u201ck\u016brortm\u0101ju\u201d \u0113k\u0101m, da\u013ca no t\u0101m gan vair\u0101k graustu, nevis \u0113ku status\u0101. Pie Vizzavonas dzelzce\u013ca stacijas atrodam nelielu veikalkiosku, kur tiekam pie maizes un siera gabala, savuk\u0101rt otr\u0101 pus\u0113 ielai, viet\u0101, par kuru izk\u0101rtne v\u0113sta \u201cb\u0101rs\u201d \u2013 pie milz\u012bgas picas un kafijas katram. Sava veida \u201cpusce\u013ca\u201d svin\u012bbas pie smalki kl\u0101tiem galdiem. Man, protams, sirdsapzi\u0146as p\u0101rmetumi, bet tik gar\u0161\u012bgu picu nebiju \u0113dusi, – visp\u0101r t\u0101 bija mana pirm\u0101 pica desmit (!) gadu laik\u0101 un te nu mans mans kaloriju kalkulators uzspr\u0101ga\u2026<\/p>\n

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P\u0113c pusdien\u0101m dev\u0101mies GR20 trekinga desmitaj\u0101 posm\u0101 un pa tak\u0101m me\u017e\u0101 uzk\u0101p\u0101m v\u0113l k\u0101dus 700 augstuma metrus aug\u0161up, pa ce\u013cam apst\u0101joties vien k\u0101d\u0101 ce\u013cmal\u0101, lai pamat\u012bgi sa\u0113stos kazenes. T\u0101 sakot \u2013 saldaj\u0101. Pica devusi jaunu elpu un jaudu! K\u0101pt pret kalnu \u0161odien vairs nav probl\u0113ma. Ejam l\u012bdz k\u0101diem 18:30 un tad tie\u0161i pie strauta, piecpadsmit metrus no takas, k\u0101 par laimi, atrad\u0101m ar\u012b lielisku teltsvietu. Nomazg\u0101jamies, v\u0101ram t\u0113ju, Kristapam p\u0101ris siermaizes. Man \u0161odienai p\u0101rtikas gana.<\/p>\n

Jau r\u012bt lasi par p\u0101rg\u0101jiena sept\u012btaj\u0101\u00a0un astotaj\u0101\u00a0dien\u0101 piedz\u012bvoto.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Desmit dienas, piecpadsmit posmi.\u00a0   \u201cLielais P\u0101rg\u0101jiens\u201d korsik\u0101\u0146u stil\u0101\u00a0jeb GR20 trekings Korsikas kalnos. Pied\u0101v\u0101jam jums Krist\u012bnes Liepi\u0146as rakst\u012btos fragmentus no\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":13911,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[402,30],"tags":[43,62,64,20,88,98,14,44],"class_list":["post-13910","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-aktiva-atputa","category-dzivesstils","tag-aktiva-atputa","tag-apavi","tag-apgerbs","tag-brivais-laiks","tag-dzivesstils","tag-reportaza","tag-trenins","tag-uzturs"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13910","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13910"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13910\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13915,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13910\/revisions\/13915"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13911"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13910"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13910"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13910"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}