{"id":14486,"date":"2017-01-04T10:40:45","date_gmt":"2017-01-04T08:40:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/spomag-lv.localhost\/?p=14486"},"modified":"2017-01-17T15:34:52","modified_gmt":"2017-01-17T13:34:52","slug":"lielais-pargajiens-korsikanu-stila-finiss-9-un-10-diena","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/lielais-pargajiens-korsikanu-stila-finiss-9-un-10-diena\/","title":{"rendered":"Lielais p\u0101rg\u0101jiens korsik\u0101\u0146u stil\u0101: fini\u0161s – 9. un 10. diena"},"content":{"rendered":"

Desmit dienas, piecpadsmit posmi.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n

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\u201cLielais P\u0101rg\u0101jiens\u201d korsik\u0101\u0146u stil\u0101\u00a0jeb GR20 trekings Korsikas kalnos.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pied\u0101v\u0101jam jums Krist\u012bnes Liepi\u0146as rakst\u012btos fragmentus no dienasgr\u0101matas par GR20 trekingu Korsikas kalnos.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u0160odien lasi parp\u0101rg\u0101jiena p\u0113d\u0113j\u0101m div\u0101m dien\u0101m.<\/p>\n

Teksts: Krist\u012bne Liepi\u0146a<\/p>\n

Foto: Kristaps un Krist\u012bne Liepi\u0146i (Kalnu Grupa)<\/p>\n

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Nakt\u012b sp\u0113c\u012bgi l\u012bst, \u0161o saj\u016btu pastiprina tas, ka m\u016bsu telts ir zem liela koka lapotnes. No r\u012bta telts nokl\u0101ta ar no koka nobiru\u0161aj\u0101m lap\u0101m. Saj\u016bta ruden\u012bga, jo visapk\u0101rt viss pel\u0113ks, migla \u00a0un apm\u0101cies.<\/p>\n

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Sapakojam slapjo telti un dodamies aug\u0161up uz k\u0101rt\u0113jo p\u0101reju. Vakar sarun\u0101j\u0101m, ka uzk\u0101psim Korsikas dienvidu da\u013cas (Corsa Sud) augst\u0101kaj\u0101 virsotn\u0113 Mount Incudine (2134 m), kura atrodas net\u0101lu no p\u0101rejas, kuru mums j\u0101\u0161\u0137\u0113rso. P\u016b\u0161 nepat\u012bkams v\u0113j\u0161, visapk\u0101rt ve\u013cas m\u0101ko\u0146u v\u0101li, debesis zemu, ik pa laikam v\u0113j\u0161 pap\u016b\u0161 k\u0101du augsti zilo debesu mali\u0146u va\u013c\u0101. Uzk\u0101pjam l\u012bdz p\u0101rejai, bet es, \u0161\u0137iet, vairs nesp\u0113ju iztur\u0113t to iek\u0161\u0113jo noguruma spriedzi sev\u012b un sp\u0113ku izs\u012bkumu, un atsakos 20 min\u016btes k\u0101pt l\u012bdz virsotnei, jo neredzu sev\u012b iek\u0161\u0113ju motiv\u0101ciju iet uz k\u0101rt\u0113jo virsotni pel\u0113k\u0101 m\u0101kon\u012b, atz\u012bm\u0113ties, ka esmu bijusi virsotn\u0113, bet neko neesmu no t\u0101s redz\u0113jusi, tikai pel\u0113kus klin\u0161u akme\u0146us. Kristaps \u013coti grib k\u0101pt aug\u0161up, at\u013cauju vi\u0146am to dar\u012bt vienam, bet vi\u0146\u0161 nev\u0113las, apvainojas un ir sadr\u016bmis v\u0113l p\u0101ris stundas pat v\u0113l p\u0113c tam…<\/p>\n

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Nok\u0101pjam l\u012bdz b\u016bdai Asinao. \u0160eit s\u0101kas GR20 trekinga \u010detrpadsmitais posms. Lej\u0101 no kalna, p\u0101ri upei un atkal aug\u0161\u0101. Ejam klus\u0113dami vair\u0101kas stundas. Ar\u012b taka \u0161eit vienmu\u013ca, neizteiksm\u012bga. Ap 14:30 piest\u0101jam pie neliela strauta me\u017e\u0101, lai izfiltr\u0113tu \u016bdeni, pa\u0113stu un iz\u017e\u0101v\u0113tu telti. T\u0101l\u0101k seko skatu zi\u0146\u0101 \u013coti at\u0161\u0137ir\u012bgs posms \u2013 k\u0101pjam aizvien augst\u0101k, \u0161eit me\u017e\u0101 atkal domin\u0113 milz\u012bg\u0101s priedes, gran\u012bta klintis d\u012bvaini veidotas, ar milz\u012bgiem caurumiem un ni\u0161\u0101m. Diem\u017e\u0113l, atkal savelkas m\u0101ko\u0146i. S\u0101k l\u012bt. Uzvelkam lietus jakas. Pirms brauk\u0161anas uz Korsiku apsv\u0113r\u0101m, – \u0146emt pl\u0101n\u0101s membr\u0101nauduma lietus jakas vai tom\u0113r nopietn\u0101kas, ar Gore-Tex, kuras tom\u0113r ar\u012b galu gal\u0101 pa\u0146\u0113m\u0101m. Tagad ir piln\u012bgi skaidrs, ka m\u016bsu izv\u0113le bijusi pareiza. Lietus pie\u0146emas sp\u0113k\u0101. Cen\u0161os dom\u0101t labas domas un b\u016bt pozit\u012bva. Pa taku izejam uz asfalt\u0113ta ce\u013ca. Bavella p\u0101reja. \u0160is ir visa veida t\u016bristu iecien\u012bts rajons \u2013 Bavella smailes (fran\u010du Aiguilles de Bavella vai korsik\u0101\u0146u I Forchi di Bavedda) un \u0161eit ir neliels \u201cciemats\u201d ar viesn\u012bc\u0101m, restor\u0101niem un b\u0101riem. Vien\u0101 t\u0101d\u0101 \u201ciespr\u016bkam\u201d un patveramies no balta lietus g\u0101ziena. S\u0113\u017eot siltum\u0101 dzeram kafiju un ap\u0113dam katrs pa vienai tarteletei (gar\u0161\u012bg\u0101k\u0101 tartelete k\u0101du esmu \u0113dusi \u2013 ar me\u017ea og\u0101m, biezu kr\u0113mu un v\u0113l putukr\u0113jumu pa virsu). Diem\u017e\u0113l, cer\u012bbas, ka sp\u0113c\u012bgais lietus mit\u0113sies, nepiepild\u0101s. \u0100r\u0101 joproj\u0101m g\u0101\u017e k\u0101 ar spai\u0146iem. Nolemjam paieties l\u012bdz pirmajai viesn\u012bcai. Tur mums par 45.- Eiro (no cilv\u0113ka, bez brokast\u012bm) pied\u0101v\u0101 vietu\u2026 maz\u0101 se\u0161viet\u012bg\u0101 istab\u0101 pagrabst\u0101v\u0101! Nu, n\u0113, paldies. Nolemjam iet t\u0101l\u0101k, jo l\u012bdz n\u0101kamajai trekinga kalnu m\u0101jai ir nepilnu divu stundu g\u0101jiens. Izejam atkal uz ielas, samekl\u0113jam takas turpin\u0101juma nor\u0101di. L\u012bst. Ejam. Me\u017es. Taka. Kalns. P\u0101reja. \u0160is ar\u012b ir viens no skaist\u0101kajiem trekinga posmiem, ar skaistiem klin\u0161u sienu veidojumiem k\u0101 no Avatara vai Gredzenu pav\u0113lnieka. Ja tikai v\u0113l nel\u012btu lietus\u2026 Man nav nevienas sausas v\u012bl\u012btes, visas dr\u0113bes ir slapjas un \u017e\u013curkst. Bet m\u0113s ejam. Man ir saj\u016bta, ka k\u0101ds mani soda par izdar\u012bto (vai neizdar\u012bto), ir skumji. Uz takas redzam atkal uguns salamandru. Tad otru, tre\u0161o, ceturto kop\u0101 ar piekto, sesto\u2026 Kop\u0101 esam \u0161aj\u0101 posm\u0101 redz\u0113ju\u0161i jau 17 salamandras! Izr\u0101d\u0101s, lietus laikam ar\u012b ir sava burv\u012bba. P\u0113c pusotras stundas esam pie Paliri kalnu m\u0101jas. Paveram durvis \u2013 p\u0101rsteigums! \u2013 nelielaj\u0101 telp\u0101 kuras uguns kam\u012bn\u0101, te jau iemitin\u0101juies k\u0101ds fran\u010du ce\u013cot\u0101ju p\u0101ris, kuri ar\u012b \u017e\u0101v\u0113 savas dr\u0113bes un s\u0113\u017eot sprak\u0161\u0137o\u0161o liesmu tuvum\u0101 sp\u0113l\u0113 k\u0101rtis. Ar\u012b vi\u0146i iet GR20 no zieme\u013ciem uz dienvidiem, ar\u012b \u0161odien pamat\u012bgi saliju\u0161i, treking\u0101 esot jau piecpadsmito dienu. \u0100r\u0101 joproj\u0101m bez p\u0101rtraukuma l\u012bst. Izkaram dr\u0113bes, s\u0113\u017eu pie uguns un \u017e\u0101v\u0113jos. Man joproj\u0101m salst. Kristaps iziet \u0101r\u0101 uz strautu p\u0113c \u016bdens vakari\u0146\u0101m un pie viena ar\u012b nomazg\u0101ties (brrrr!), – es nesp\u0113ju t\u0101 k\u0101 vi\u0146\u0161, es neesmu \u201cvecis\u201d. \u0160obr\u012bd j\u016btos neieder\u012bga \u0161aj\u0101s \u201cekstr\u0113maj\u0101s izklaid\u0113s\u201d. Pesimisma melnais vilnis. \u0160\u0137iet, nekad nesp\u0113\u0161u nest tik smagas somas un k\u0101pt k\u0101 vi\u0146\u0161, nesp\u0113\u0161u b\u016bt tik sp\u0113c\u012bga, iztur\u012bga un drosm\u012bga.<\/p>\n

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07.10.2016. Desmit\u0101 diena, piecpadsmitais, p\u0113d\u0113jais GR20 posms!<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Nakt\u012b turpina l\u012bt un ir pamat\u012bga v\u0113tra ar sp\u0113c\u012bg\u0101m v\u0113ja br\u0101zm\u0101m, bet es iel\u012bdusi gu\u013cammais\u0101 gu\u013cu labi. Virs kam\u012bna \u017e\u016bst m\u016bsu mitr\u0101s mantas, blaktis, paldies dievam, izskat\u0101s, ka \u0161aj\u0101 b\u016bd\u0101 nav. Agri no r\u012bta lietus ir mit\u0113jies, un lai ar\u012b debes\u012bs v\u0113l daudz m\u0101ko\u0146u, saull\u0113kt\u0101 saules stari izlau\u017e\u0101s p\u0101ri pamalei un ko\u0161\u0101s kr\u0101s\u0101s izrot\u0101 sarkan\u012bg\u0101s klin\u0161u smailes un za\u013co prie\u017eu me\u017eu. T\u0101ds skaistums!<\/p>\n

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Pa\u0113dam brokastis un dodamies lejup uz Concu. Ah\u2026 \u0161is ce\u013c\u0161, liek\u0101s, nebeigsies. Piecas stundas aug\u0161\u0101, lej\u0101, un atkal aug\u0161\u0101, lej\u0101. K\u013c\u016bstu \u012bdz\u012bga. \u0160odien pret\u012b mums neviens nen\u0101k, neviena cilv\u0113ka nekur. Vismaz skaisti skati visapk\u0101rt. Steigas nav. Pa ce\u013cam neliel\u0101 atp\u016btas br\u012bd\u012b pak\u0101pel\u0113jam pa klint\u012bm, kuras \u0161aj\u0101 viet\u0101 \u012bpa\u0161i savdab\u012bgas un interesantas. J\u0101saka, ka \u0161is posms jau atkal b\u016btu skaistuma zi\u0146\u0101 nov\u0113rt\u0113jams ar trij\u0101m zvaigzn\u012bt\u0113m un b\u016btu v\u0113rts \u0161eit jau dr\u012bzum\u0101 atgriezties, ne vairs p\u0101rg\u0101jienam, bet ar m\u0113r\u0137i k\u0101pt pa klint\u012bm! Visas iesp\u0113jas \u2013 \u0161eit ir gan mazi un skaisti, gan gari un nopietni k\u0101pieni. Taka \u0161eit l\u012bkumo starp milz\u012bg\u0101m, kupolveid\u012bg\u0101m klin\u0161u pier\u0113m.<\/p>\n

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N\u0101ko\u0161aj\u0101 atp\u016bt\u0101 nomazg\u0101jamies nelielas up\u012btes v\u0113si veldz\u0113jo\u0161aj\u0101 straum\u0113. Da\u017eus simtus metrus zem\u0101k taka \u0161\u0137\u0113rso \u0161o pa\u0161u up\u012bti un uz t\u0101s iespaid\u012bgs \u016bdenskritums. Ap pusdienas laiku esam Conc\u0101, \u0161eit ar\u012b beidzas m\u016bsu aptuveni divus simtus kilometru garais p\u0101rg\u0101jiens.<\/p>\n

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Pa\u0161\u0101 Conc\u0101 viss ciet, ar\u012b \u0161eit sezona beigusies, – \u0161ai pils\u0113ti\u0146ai rakstur\u012bga sezon\u0101la dz\u012bve, visvair\u0101k cilv\u0113ku vasar\u0101, kad \u0161eit ierod\u0101s simtiem cilv\u0113ku ik dienas, k\u0101ds uzs\u0101k GR20 taku, k\u0101ds beidz savu \u201clielo p\u0101rg\u0101jienu\u201d. Liel\u0101, tuk\u0161\u0101 viesu m\u0101j\u0101, kas p\u0113c uzraksta sprie\u017eot, ir \u201cofici\u0101l\u0101 b\u016bda\u201d, mums var iedot tikai kafiju un WiFi paroli. No Concas ar stopiem aizbraucam uz Porto Vecchio \u2013 skaistu Korsikas piekrastes ostas pils\u0113tu ar senu v\u0113sturi. S\u0101kam mekl\u0113t viesn\u012bcu, kur\u0101 apmesties un jautr\u012bba var s\u0101kties. Viesn\u012bcas \u0161eit nelapbr\u0101t uz\u0146em trekingot\u0101jus, kuri g\u0101ju\u0161i GR20, jo vi\u0146i baidoties no\u2026 blakt\u012bm! M\u016bsu apgalvojums, ka p\u0101rsvar\u0101 esam gul\u0113ju\u0161i tikai telt\u012b vi\u0146us nep\u0101rliecina. Vienojamies, ka varam palikt viesn\u012bcas istab\u0101, bet somas l\u012bdzi nevaram \u0146emt. Lai pa\u0146emtu zobubirstes un pirm\u0101s nepiecie\u0161am\u012bbas lietas m\u016bs ieved gar\u0101\u017e\u0101, l\u016bdz no\u0123\u0113rbties l\u012bdz \u201capen\u012bt\u0113m\u201d, visas dr\u0113bes samest ve\u013casma\u0161\u012bn\u0101, p\u0101r\u0113jo ekip\u0113jumu som\u0101 un somas atsevi\u0161\u0137\u0101 telp\u0101. Un mums jau nav di\u017eu iebildumu \u2013 gan pa\u0161i tiekam karst\u0101 du\u0161\u0101, gan izmazg\u0101tas visas p\u0101rg\u0101jiena dr\u0113bes.<\/p>\n

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Vakars paiet izstaig\u0101jot Porto Vecchio vecpils\u0113tu. Protams, visvair\u0101k m\u016bs interes\u0113 p\u0101rtikas veikali\u0146i\u2026 \ud83d\ude42 Starpcitu, Korsikas dienvidu piekrastes bulan\u017e\u0113riju apmekl\u0113\u0161ana ir lielisks veids k\u0101 atg\u016bt sp\u0113kus p\u0113c trekinga.<\/p>\n

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Nosl\u0113gum\u0101 v\u0113l da\u017ei secin\u0101jumi un ieteikumi par GR20 t\u0113mu (gan jau interesenti iziet \u0161o \u201cpastaigu\u201d b\u016bs v\u0113l un v\u0113l). Pirmk\u0101rt, katram, kur\u0161 v\u0113las doties \u0161aj\u0101 p\u0101rg\u0101jien\u0101 ir j\u0101m\u0113\u0123ina apr\u0113\u0137in\u0101t savas sp\u0113jas pirms (!) v\u0113l j\u016bs esat \u0161aj\u0101 treking\u0101, pl\u0101nojot avio bi\u013ce\u0161u ieg\u0101di! Uz takas vair\u0101ki satiktie ce\u013cot\u0101ji apliecin\u0101ja, kuri izlasot citu ieteikumus, ka takas divus posmus var apvienot un iziet vien\u0101 dien\u0101, nereti ieber\u017eas un nop\u0113rk avio bi\u013cetes \u0101tr\u0101k, nek\u0101 vi\u0146i re\u0101li var pasp\u0113t iziet pilnu GR20 trekingu. Esiet kritiski savu sp\u0113ju nov\u0113rt\u0113\u0161an\u0101! Otrk\u0101rt, j\u0101saprot, vai \u0161o trekingu v\u0113laties iet \u201cfitnesa nol\u016bk\u0101\u201d vai \u201cl\u0113nai baudai\u201d, attiec\u012bgi izv\u0113loties sezonu, l\u012bdzi nesamo mantu pielietojumu un apjomu, k\u0101 ar\u012b trenni\u0146u veidu pirms \u0161\u012b pas\u0101kuma. Atg\u0101din\u0101\u0161u, ka veicot Korsikas GR20 san\u0101k nostaig\u0101t aug\u0161\u0101\/lej\u0101 vair\u0101k k\u0101 13 000 augstuma metrus (k\u0101ds pusotrs Everests, ne?) ap 200 kilometru gar\u0101 distanc\u0113… Tad nu tam ar\u012b gatavojieties trenni\u0146os. \u013boti ieteicams ar\u012b pirms tam pak\u0101pt pa klint\u012bm, ja to neesat dar\u012bju\u0161i \u2013 k\u0101 jau \u0161eit vair\u0101kk\u0101rt uzsv\u0113rts, \u0161\u0101das iema\u0146as \u0161aj\u0101 p\u0101rg\u0101jien\u0101 \u013coti noder. Tre\u0161k\u0101rt \u2013 apavi, ap\u0123\u0113rbs un ekip\u0113jums \u2013 tas viss kopum\u0101 un katra lieta atsevi\u0161\u0137i var izr\u0101d\u012bties kritiski noz\u012bm\u012bgs faktors, no k\u0101 b\u016bs atkar\u012bgs \u2013 iziesiet visu GR20 un atgriez\u012bsieties no Korsikas ar \u201cuzvar\u0113t\u0101ja smaidu\u201d sej\u0101, vai n\u0101ksies atk\u0101pties ar vil\u0161an\u0101s r\u016bgtumu un \u201cvarb\u016bt n\u0101ko\u0161reiz\u201d mierin\u0101juma saj\u016btu.<\/p>\n

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Un v\u0113l \u2013 ar\u012b Korsikas dienvidu da\u013c\u0101, gar pa\u0161u piekrasti, ir skaistas takas, un ja jums \u0161\u0137iet, ka ar visu l\u012bdz \u0161im piedz\u012bvoto ir \u201cpar \u012bsu\u201d vai palikusi k\u0101da lieka un \u201cneaizpild\u012bta\u201d diena \u2013 ir iesp\u0113ja \u201clielo p\u0101rg\u0101jienu\u201d v\u0113l mazliet paturpin\u0101t, k\u0101 to dar\u012bj\u0101m m\u0113s pirms atgrie\u0161an\u0101s \u201cpils\u0113tas ikdien\u0101\u201d.<\/p>\n

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Desmit dienas, piecpadsmit posmi.\u00a0   \u201cLielais P\u0101rg\u0101jiens\u201d korsik\u0101\u0146u stil\u0101\u00a0jeb GR20 trekings Korsikas kalnos. Pied\u0101v\u0101jam jums Krist\u012bnes Liepi\u0146as rakst\u012btos fragmentus no\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":14491,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[402,30],"tags":[43,62,64,20,88,98,11,14,44],"class_list":["post-14486","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-aktiva-atputa","category-dzivesstils","tag-aktiva-atputa","tag-apavi","tag-apgerbs","tag-brivais-laiks","tag-dzivesstils","tag-reportaza","tag-slaveniba","tag-trenins","tag-uzturs"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14486","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14486"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14486\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14600,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14486\/revisions\/14600"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/14491"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14486"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=14486"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=14486"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}