{"id":3698,"date":"2015-11-20T10:13:34","date_gmt":"2015-11-20T08:13:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/spomag-lv.localhost\/?p=3698"},"modified":"2015-12-04T16:09:00","modified_gmt":"2015-12-04T14:09:00","slug":"kristapa-liepina-eiropas-alpinisma-zimoli","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/kristapa-liepina-eiropas-alpinisma-zimoli\/","title":{"rendered":"KRISTAPA LIEPI\u0145A EIROPAS ALP\u012aNISMA Z\u012aMOLI"},"content":{"rendered":"

Oktobra s\u0101kum\u0101, tikko atgriezies no kalnu ce\u013cojuma Tibet\u0101, Kristaps Liepi\u0146\u0161 piekrita past\u0101st\u012bt par trim Eiropas liel\u0101kajiem alp\u012bnisma sv\u0113tce\u013cojumiem, kurus apv\u012bt\u0101s slavas d\u0113\u013c var d\u0113v\u0113t par z\u012bmoliem. Attiec\u012bgo virsot\u0146u apg\u016b\u0161ana daudzu ac\u012bs k\u013cuvusi par tikpat nopietnu soci\u0101l\u0101 statusa atrib\u016btu k\u0101 noteikta ra\u017eot\u0101ja pulkstenis vai automa\u0161\u012bna. Vienlaikus \u0161\u012b situ\u0101cija nopietni saasin\u0101jusi jaut\u0101jumu par dro\u0161\u012bbas l\u012bmeni kalnos, jo virsot\u0146u iekarot\u0101jiem bie\u017ei tr\u016bkst vajadz\u012bgo prasmju un zin\u0101\u0161anu. \u201cKalnu gidiem tie ir pa\u0161i lab\u0101kie klienti, jo \u0101tri var griezties atpaka\u013c m\u0101j\u0101s, \u2013 t\u0101 sakot, atvainojiet, bet j\u016bsu sagatavot\u012bba ir par \u0161vaku…\u201d smejoties saka Kristaps, ta\u010du p\u0113c tam nopietni piebilst, ka joki tom\u0113r mazi: \u201cEjot kalnos bez atbilst\u012bgas sagatavot\u012bbas vai ekip\u0113juma, potenci\u0101l\u0101m briesm\u0101m tiek pak\u013cautas ar\u012b gl\u0101b\u0113ju un p\u0101r\u0113jo k\u0101piena dal\u012bbnieku dz\u012bv\u012bba.\u201d \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

MONBL\u0100NS<\/p>\n

Alpu kalnu gr\u0113das un Rietumeiropas augst\u0101k\u0101 virsotne (4810 m) alp\u012bnistus no visas pasaules piesaista ne tikai ar savu \u201caugsto\u201d statusu, bet ar\u012b t\u0101p\u0113c, ka t\u0101 tiek uzskat\u012bta par relat\u012bvi viegli sasniedzamu. \u013boti daudziem ar Monbl\u0101nu saist\u0101s pirm\u0101 nopietn\u0101 un nereti vien\u012bg\u0101 alp\u012bnisma pieredze, citiem k\u0101p\u0161ana taj\u0101 kalpo k\u0101 sagatavo\u0161an\u0101s tehniski sare\u017e\u0123\u012bt\u0101kiem k\u0101pieniem.<\/p>\n

Tom\u0113r Monbl\u0101nam, t\u0101pat k\u0101 jebkuram kalnam, ir vair\u0101kas sejas, prec\u012bz\u0101k \u2013 nog\u0101zes. Katra pied\u0101v\u0101 piln\u012bgi at\u0161\u0137ir\u012bgu k\u0101p\u0161anas pieredzi. \u201cKad devi\u0146desmitajos gados pirmo reizi ierados Monbl\u0101n\u0101, es atteicos ar p\u0101r\u0113jiem k\u0101pt pa klasisko mar\u0161rutu un devos k\u0101pt pa klint\u012bm,\u201d Kristaps atceras, k\u0101, pirmoreiz saticies ar le\u0123end\u0101ro virsotni, sp\u012bt\u012bgi uzgriezis muguru un nosol\u012bjies taj\u0101 uzk\u0101pt pa k\u0101du cien\u012bjam\u0101ku mar\u0161rutu. Da\u017eus gadus v\u0113l\u0101k, ziem\u0101, tas izdevies kop\u0101 ar diviem iev\u0113rojamiem Krievijas un Ukrainas alp\u012bnistiem, k\u0101pienu s\u0101kot no It\u0101lijas puses. \u201cM\u0113s k\u0101p\u0101m pa austrumu sienu, nevis kori un dar\u012bj\u0101m to \u013coti \u0101tri, fast and light stil\u0101, virves izmantojot tikai pa\u0161\u0101 sare\u017e\u0123\u012bt\u0101kaj\u0101 posm\u0101. Virsotn\u0113 bija m\u012bnus 25 gr\u0101di,\u201d vi\u0146\u0161 atceras savu pirmo neaizmirstamo k\u0101pienu Monbl\u0101n\u0101. \u201cT\u0101 bija ide\u0101la \u0161oka terapija, kurai biju gatavojies daudzus gadus,\u201d vi\u0146\u0161 piebilst.<\/p>\n

Ta\u010du ar\u012b klasisk\u0101 mar\u0161ruta vieglums nereti izr\u0101d\u0101s m\u0101n\u012bgs. \u201cEsmu redz\u0113jis, k\u0101 cilv\u0113kus, kas Monbl\u0101n\u0101 k\u0101pj d\u017einsos un parast\u0101s ielas saulesbrill\u0113s, v\u0113l\u0101k ved lej\u0101 pie rokas, jo vi\u0146i ir apdedzin\u0101ju\u0161i acis un iedz\u012bvoju\u0161ies t\u0101 sauktaj\u0101 sniega aklum\u0101, kur\u0161 var ilgt pat tr\u012bs dienas,\u201d st\u0101sta Kristaps.<\/p>\n

Tom\u0113r Monbl\u0101ns sava demokr\u0101tiskuma d\u0113\u013c ir un paliek visvair\u0101k apmekl\u0113t\u0101 virsotne Eirop\u0101. Alp\u012bnisma pamata prasmes apguvu\u0161ie k\u0101p\u0113ji taj\u0101 var k\u0101pt vienatn\u0113 vai draugu lok\u0101, turpret\u012b cilv\u0113ki bez nopietn\u0101m k\u0101p\u0161anas iema\u0146\u0101m, ta\u010du ar atbilst\u012bgu fizisko iztur\u012bbu Monbl\u0101n\u0101 var uzk\u0101pt gida pavad\u012bb\u0101.<\/p>\n

MATERHORNS<\/p>\n

\u0160veices un It\u0101lijas robe\u017evirsotne (4478 m), kuras siluets iem\u016b\u017ein\u0101ts ar\u012b uz slaven\u0101 viet\u0113j\u0101s \u0161okol\u0101des z\u012bmola iesai\u0146ojumiem un k\u0101rb\u0101m, ir daudz pras\u012bg\u0101ka attiec\u012bb\u0101 uz k\u0101p\u0113ju pieredzi un iema\u0146\u0101m. Jau no pirm\u0101 acu uzmetiena Materhorns kardin\u0101li at\u0161\u0137iras no l\u0113zen\u0101 Monbl\u0101na, \u2013 tam ir st\u0101va un izteikti zobaina kore. Lai ar\u012b no tehnisk\u0101 alp\u012bnisma viedok\u013ca t\u0101 tiek pieskait\u012bta pie vid\u0113ji sare\u017e\u0123\u012bt\u0101m virsotn\u0113m, \u0161is kalns laika gait\u0101 ir pa\u0146\u0113mis simtiem dz\u012bv\u012bbu un tiek uzskat\u012bts par vienu no b\u012bstam\u0101kaj\u0101m Alpu smail\u0113m.<\/p>\n

\u201cTas ir \u013coti dz\u012bvs kalns, akme\u0146i kr\u012bt regul\u0101ri, k\u0101 t\u0101das aviobumbas,\u201d saka Kristaps, gandr\u012bz k\u0101 murgu atceroties pirmo m\u0113\u0123in\u0101jumu k\u0101pt Materhorn\u0101 pa vienu no netradicion\u0101lajiem \u2013 dienvidaustrumu sienas \u2013 mar\u0161rutiem. Kop\u0101 ar vair\u0101kiem Latvijas alp\u012bnisma vecmeistariem vi\u0146i toreiz piekopu\u0161i Kristapam nepievilc\u012bgo ortodoks\u0101lo k\u0101p\u0161anas stilu. Pieveiku\u0161i divas tre\u0161da\u013cas kalna, vi\u0146i sniegputen\u012b p\u0101rlaidu\u0161i nakti uz apsnigu\u0161a sienas plaukta un nol\u0113mu\u0161i atk\u0101pties, lai\u017eoties lejup pa \u016bdenskritumu mal\u0101m k\u0101d\u0101 dzi\u013c\u0101 sienas kulu\u0101r\u0101. \u201cM\u0113s bij\u0101m p\u0101r\u0101k smagn\u0113ji un l\u0113ni. \u0160aj\u0101 virsotn\u0113 ir j\u0101k\u0101pj iesp\u0113jami maz\u0101 sasait\u0113, turkl\u0101t saska\u0146oti un \u0101tri,\u201d vi\u0146\u0161 tagad secina.<\/p>\n

Komerci\u0101laj\u0101 alp\u012bnism\u0101 par zin\u0101mu virsotnes sare\u017e\u0123\u012bt\u012bbas m\u0113rauklu var uzskat\u012bt gidu attiec\u012bbu pret k\u0101p\u0113ju skaitu. K\u0101pjot Monbl\u0101n\u0101 uz vienu gidu ir aptuveni se\u0161i, maksimums, desmit, divpadsmit k\u0101p\u0113ji, turpret\u012b Materhorn\u0101 \u0161\u012b attiec\u012bba ir viens pret viens, maksimums, divi. Kristaps saka: ja k\u0101ds gids pied\u0101v\u0101 uzvest vienlaikus vair\u0101k klientu, visticam\u0101k, kaut kas nav k\u0101rt\u012bb\u0101.<\/p>\n

Popul\u0101r\u0101kais mar\u0161ruts uz Materhorna virsotni ved no zieme\u013cu puses \u0160veic\u0113, kuru itin bie\u017ei, v\u0113loties sevi pier\u0101d\u012bt vai p\u0101rbaud\u012bt, m\u0113\u0123ina pieveikt ar\u012b k\u0101p\u0113ji no Latvijas. Izv\u0113l\u0113ties \u0161o kalnu par pirmo nopietno alp\u012bnisma p\u0101rbaud\u012bjumu neb\u016btu pr\u0101ta darbs. Tom\u0113r ar\u012b Materhorn\u0101 var uzk\u0101pt jebkur\u0161 fiziski labi sagatavots cilv\u0113ks \u2013 ar nosac\u012bjumu, ka v\u0113lmi papildina m\u0113r\u0137tiec\u012bba, atbilst\u012bgi veikta sagatavo\u0161an\u0101s un ar\u012b veiksme, bez kuras alp\u012bnism\u0101 neiztikt. Kaut vai attiec\u012bb\u0101 uz laikapst\u0101k\u013ciem. \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

EIGERS<\/p>\n

V\u0113l viena virsotne (3970 m) \u0160veic\u0113. T\u0101s le\u0123end\u0101m apv\u012bt\u0101 slava galvenok\u0101rt saist\u012bta ar zieme\u013cu puses sienu, kura alp\u012bnistu aprind\u0101s tiek d\u0113v\u0113ta ar\u012b par slepkavsienu. Visu pag\u0101ju\u0161\u0101 gadsimta pirmo pusi turpin\u0101j\u0101s c\u012b\u0146a par \u0161\u0101 mar\u0161ruta pirmk\u0101p\u0113ja godu, l\u012bdz 1938. gad\u0101 to pirmoreiz veica Austrijas un V\u0101cijas alp\u012bnistu apvienot\u0101 komanda.<\/p>\n

M\u016bsdien\u0101s ar\u012b k\u0101pieniem pa Eigera zieme\u013cu sienu ir pieejami gidu pakalpojumi. Vien\u0101 pieg\u0101jien\u0101 tie nem\u0113dz \u0146emt l\u012bdzi vair\u0101k par vienu k\u0101p\u0113ju, turkl\u0101t oblig\u0101ta ir ne tikai iepriek\u0161\u0113ja alp\u012bnisma pieredze, bet ar\u012b vair\u0101kk\u0101rt\u0113ji savstarp\u0113ji veikti k\u0101pieni maz\u0101k b\u012bstamos kalnu mar\u0161rutos.<\/p>\n

Ar\u012b Kristapam Liepi\u0146am k\u0101piens pa Eigera zieme\u013cu sienu joproj\u0101m ierakst\u012bts v\u0113lmju un paveicamo lietu sarakst\u0101. \u201cVair\u0101ki cilv\u0113ki man ir jaut\u0101ju\u0161i \u2013 vai m\u0113s kop\u0101 var\u0113tu uzk\u0101pt \u0161o mar\u0161rutu?\u201d vi\u0146\u0161 st\u0101sta. \u201cLiel\u0101koties mana atbilde ir apstiprino\u0161a. Ta\u010du ar piebildi, ka l\u012bdz tam kop\u012bgi pieveicam vair\u0101kus citus alp\u012bnisma mar\u0161rutus un izdar\u0101m v\u0113l daudzus priek\u0161darbus.\u201d Pagaid\u0101m neviens \u0161o atlasi nav iztur\u0113jis.<\/p>\n

Daudzas probl\u0113mas, ar kur\u0101m sask\u0101r\u0101s pag\u0101ju\u0161aj\u0101 gadsimta s\u0101kuma alp\u012bnisma \u0113ras p\u0101rst\u0101vji, m\u016bsdien\u0101s ir maz\u0101kas. Vismilz\u012bg\u0101kais l\u0113ciens veikts ekip\u0113juma jom\u0101, vair\u0101kos faktoros iev\u0113rojami samazinot dz\u012bv\u012bbas briesmu risku. \u201cM\u016bsdien\u0101s pieejams ap\u0123\u0113rbs, kur\u0101 praktiski nav iesp\u0113jams nosalt, ta\u010du ne visi ir gatavi \u0161\u0101d\u0101 dro\u0161\u012bb\u0101 ieguld\u012bt l\u012bdzek\u013cus,\u201d saka Kristaps, lai ar\u012b atz\u012bst, ka teor\u0113tiski gandr\u012bz jebkur\u0101 virsotn\u0113 var uzk\u0101pt ar\u012b krosen\u0113s, ja tikai m\u0101ki un gribi. Ta\u010du m\u016bsdienu alp\u012bnism\u0101 pats b\u016btisk\u0101kais ir prasme izv\u0113l\u0113ties \u012bsto instrumentu \u012bstaj\u0101 br\u012bd\u012b, turkl\u0101t zin\u0101t, k\u0101 to pareizi lietot. \u201cK\u0101pjot kalnos, pa\u013cauties tikai uz veiksmi nav pr\u0101ta darbs. Ir reizes, kad pret\u012b nost\u0101jas visi iesp\u0113jamie apst\u0101k\u013ci.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":3686,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[28],"tags":[88],"class_list":["post-3698","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sports","tag-dzivesstils"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3698","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3698"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3698\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3886,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3698\/revisions\/3886"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3686"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3698"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3698"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sportland.lv\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3698"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}